How to take care of your
(Netherland Dwarf) Rabbit
Housing:
I recommend that you keep your rabbit in an all wire cage with a drop pan.
They're much easier to clean than solid bottom hutches (although either will
work fine if that's all you have available). Netherland Dwarf breeders usually
keep their rabbits in 18x24 or 24x24 inch cages. In a larger cage, it may be
hard to get your rabbit out. If you keep your bunny outside, you should provide
it with a wood box with a hole on one or two sides to give it shade in the summer, and help keep in body heat in the winter. Outside bunnies need to be protected from predators including both dogs and wild animals. Be careful when keeping your bunny in a garage. (A car running in the garage could produce carbon monoxide poisoning.) Any rabbit may become territorial about their home/cage and may not welcome others inside their home.
Dishes:
Your rabbit will need two dishes; one for food and one for water. Heavy crocks, water bottles and metal dishes all work well, but they should be too heavy for bunny to toss around the cage. One disadvantage to water bottles is that they can freeze up in the winter if your rabbit is kept outside. If using a water bottle, be certain your rabbit has learned how to drink from one.
Food/Water:
The main staple in a rabbit's diet is rabbit pellets. They contain nutrients that your bunny needs to stay healthy. Your rabbit should be fed about one ounce of food per pound of rabbit. I generally feed my Netherland Dwarf rabbits 1/3 of a cup through the summer, and 1/3-1/2 cup in the winter. Some dwarfs may be satisfied with ¼ cup a day. Does with kits can be free fed, as well as juniors. You should feed timothy or grass hay at least a couple times a week. I feed my rabbits pellets once a day. Do not overfeed (they may get fat). Many rabbits also enjoy other treats such as carrots, pineapple, bananas, kale, oats, cheerios, and other low moisture foods. These should be fed in moderation (1-2 times a week in small amounts) to prevent health problems. Rabbits should have fresh water available at all times. When you get your new bunny, make sure you switch it's pellets from one brand to another gradually (over about a week) so their system can get used to the change. Note: never feed pellets which have had a chance to mold.
Weather:
In hot weather, make sure that your bunny ALWAYS has water. Make sure that your bunny's cage is in the shade. A fan is also a nice addition to your "rabbit barn" in the summer. Just set it up so it s blowing through a corner of your rabbit's cage. I also like to freeze water in pop bottles (cap on) and give it to them to lay next to/on. Make sure your rabbit has a way to keep warm in the winter (ie: a box or a handful of hay, etc).
Health and Maintenance:
Rabbits are low in maintenance and rarely, if ever, need a vet visit.
(Netherland Dwarf) Rabbit
Housing:
I recommend that you keep your rabbit in an all wire cage with a drop pan.
They're much easier to clean than solid bottom hutches (although either will
work fine if that's all you have available). Netherland Dwarf breeders usually
keep their rabbits in 18x24 or 24x24 inch cages. In a larger cage, it may be
hard to get your rabbit out. If you keep your bunny outside, you should provide
it with a wood box with a hole on one or two sides to give it shade in the summer, and help keep in body heat in the winter. Outside bunnies need to be protected from predators including both dogs and wild animals. Be careful when keeping your bunny in a garage. (A car running in the garage could produce carbon monoxide poisoning.) Any rabbit may become territorial about their home/cage and may not welcome others inside their home.
Dishes:
Your rabbit will need two dishes; one for food and one for water. Heavy crocks, water bottles and metal dishes all work well, but they should be too heavy for bunny to toss around the cage. One disadvantage to water bottles is that they can freeze up in the winter if your rabbit is kept outside. If using a water bottle, be certain your rabbit has learned how to drink from one.
Food/Water:
The main staple in a rabbit's diet is rabbit pellets. They contain nutrients that your bunny needs to stay healthy. Your rabbit should be fed about one ounce of food per pound of rabbit. I generally feed my Netherland Dwarf rabbits 1/3 of a cup through the summer, and 1/3-1/2 cup in the winter. Some dwarfs may be satisfied with ¼ cup a day. Does with kits can be free fed, as well as juniors. You should feed timothy or grass hay at least a couple times a week. I feed my rabbits pellets once a day. Do not overfeed (they may get fat). Many rabbits also enjoy other treats such as carrots, pineapple, bananas, kale, oats, cheerios, and other low moisture foods. These should be fed in moderation (1-2 times a week in small amounts) to prevent health problems. Rabbits should have fresh water available at all times. When you get your new bunny, make sure you switch it's pellets from one brand to another gradually (over about a week) so their system can get used to the change. Note: never feed pellets which have had a chance to mold.
Weather:
In hot weather, make sure that your bunny ALWAYS has water. Make sure that your bunny's cage is in the shade. A fan is also a nice addition to your "rabbit barn" in the summer. Just set it up so it s blowing through a corner of your rabbit's cage. I also like to freeze water in pop bottles (cap on) and give it to them to lay next to/on. Make sure your rabbit has a way to keep warm in the winter (ie: a box or a handful of hay, etc).
Health and Maintenance:
Rabbits are low in maintenance and rarely, if ever, need a vet visit.
- Rabbits toenails need trimming occasionally. If you are a beginner, have a breeder show you how to trim your rabbit’s nails at the time of purchase. If you accidentally cut the “quick”, apply pressure, and/or use a blood clotting powder to stop the bleeding (corn starch usually works).
- Rabbits may need to be brushed during a molt to keep them from ingesting too much fur. Papaya tablets or fresh pineapple can help prevent issues with fur block.
- Rabbits can be litter box trained and will probably choose a corner of their cage to use for this business.
- Do not use cedar shavings for bedding because they can harm small animals. Pine or aspen shavings are ok.
- ou may wish to bring your rabbit to a vet if you are concerned it may be sick or injured. Common problems include eye injury, respiratory virus, parasites (like ear mites), loose stools for a week or more, or sore hocks.
- If your rabbit has matter around it's nose/eyes, and on the insides of it's front paws I recommend that you either take it to the vet, or put it down. Respiratory infections are potentially fatal in rabbits, and highly contagious. Questionable rabbits should be quarantined away from other rabbits ASAP.
- Loose stools can often be treated by withholding pellet feed, and giving timothy hay (or other grass hay) and fresh water for a few days.
- Sore hocks are somewhat common in rabbits. Preventative Medicine: commercial resting mats are available or you can keep a piece of wood, sheetrock or cardboard in their cage, although it should be removed when dirty.
